Vilnius (428km. north-east of Warsaw, 128m. above sea-level) is picturesquely situated on the river Wilja at the point where the river Wilenka enters it. It lies in a valley surrounded by hills and was the former capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Today it is a voivode and University City, the seat of the metropolitan archbishop of the Roman Catholic Church, the General Superintendent of the Evangelical Church (Lithuanian section) and the Mufti of the Polish Moslems. Vilnius has a population of 207,340 (65.94% Poles, 28.24% Jews, 3.77% Russians, 0.80% White Russians, 0.73% Lithuanians, 0.28% Germans, 0.24% others including Karaites and Tartars.

The first historical recordings referring to Vilnius date back to 1323 when it was ruled by the Great Duke Gedymin. After the unification of Lithuania and Poland in 1387, King Wladyslaw Jagiello granted Vilnius the Magdeburg legal privileges. From that moment until the mid XVII century the city undergoes remarkable and incessant expansion. The brick Gothic-styled churches of St. Nicholas, St. John, the Franciscans, St. Anne and the Bernardines appear at the beginning of the XV and XVI as well as the Greek-Orthodox churches of the Holy Trinity and St. Nicholas. At the beginning of the XVI century, the city was fortified but these walls were almost totally destroyed at the beginning of the XIX century. During his reign, around the middle of the XVI century, Zygmunt August and his court sojourned here often and it was also at this time that Vilnius was experiencing a marked boom: the residential Zamek Dolny was rebuilt in the Renaissance style under the direction of the Italian architect, G. Cinni and the cathedral was rebuilt according to the plans of another Italian architect, B. Zenobi.

The Jesuit Academy, founded in 1578 during Stefan Batory’s reign, played a significant role in the city’s development. Vilnius became the seat of learning and religious and political thought. The most precious monuments of the early baroque era (first half of the XVII century) include the churches of St. Kazimierz, All Saints, St. Teresa, the cathedral chapel of St. Kazimierz and the Academy buildings (presently university). They are huddled around the Arcadian courtyard and the papal seminary. Exquisite examples of early baroque tombstone sculptures can be found in the church of St. Michael, in the cathedral and in the post-Bernardine Church.

The arrival of the Muscovite Army in 1655 saw the turning point in the history of Vilnius. Within a few years, the enemy managed to destroy the city totally. After forcing the enemy out, Vilnius managed to raise itself from the rubble but did not regain its former glory although it did show a noticeable development, architecturally speaking, in the second half of the XVII and XVIII century. The splendid church of St. Peter and Paul on the Antocol, built by the Krakau architect, Zaora, is a remarkable example of the baroque style, which flourished in the second half of the XVII century. Its interior, richly decorated by Italian stucco workers under the guidance of Peretti and Galli is embellished with murals by the Italian painter, Palloni. Towards the end of the XVII century, we find yet another well-known Italian painter working in Vilnius, namely, Delbene, who painted the beautiful murals in the St. Kazimierz chapel.

The fires of 1737, 1748 and 1749 paved the way for a revival in the building industry. It was at this time that the decorative Vilnius rococo style developed, distinguished by tall slender towers, varied and bountiful ornamentation, an abundance of colourful stucco altars and rich polychrome. This new artistic trend is already noticeable in the church of St. Katherine but crystallizes itself in the church of the Missionaries, in the rebuilt churches of St. John, the Holy Ghost, the Basilians and many others. The baroque and rococo styled architecture dominate Vilnius’ panorama today.

The last twenty years of the XVIII century are witnesses to an era of harsh and monumental classical architecture. Excellent examples of this type of architecture can be seen in the works of the well-known, classicistic Vilnius architect, Wawrzyniec Grucewicz, but above all, in the rebuilt cathedral and town hall.

During the first 30 years of the XIX century, the University of Vilnius, which was reorganized in 1803, plays an important role in the life of the city. By inviting distinguished professors, both Polish and from abroad (Sniadecki, Frank, Lelewel and others) it was possible to create an esteemed centre of learning and the work of the professor painters, Smuglewicz and Rusten, encouraged the growth of an artistic milieu. Here we must mention the famous Polish romantic poets, Mickiewicz and Slowacki, who were among the many famous students of this university. The imprisonment and lawsuit of the Filarites in 1833 resulted in acts of repression by the invaders against the deeply patriotic university students. The university was closed in 1832 after academic staff and students had taken part in the November Uprising. The city was deeply moved by Napoleon’s march on Moscow and the return of his army in 1832.

The Polish Army liberated Vilnius on 19 April 1919 and Marshal Pilsudski reopened the university. Once again, Vilnius became the seat of education and the arts.

Visiting the City

(the numbers in brackets refer to the numbers on the city guide)

We leave the railway station (1) and the airport by way of the Ostra Brama (2), the only remaining part of the city walls (gothic - the beginning of the XVI century, baroque attic - XVII century). A chapel was built on at the city side (presently classicistic – early XIX century) and houses the miraculous picture of Our Lady of Ostra Brama. The street directly in front of the chapel is regarded as an open air church and passers-by, regardless of faith, remove their headgear when walking past. To the right, we have the church of St. Teresa (3) (baroque – first half of the XVII century, interior rococo – XVII century) and it was here that the urn with Marshal Pilsudski’s heart found temporary rest.

Further down Ostrobrama Street and on the right-hand side there is the Greek-Orthodox Church of the Holy Ghost (4), which was built at the beginning of the XVII century and rebuilt in the classicistic style in the second half of the XVIII century. The interior is rococo iconostas, an interesting example of how the artistic forms of western art are adapted to the liturgical needs of the Eastern Church. On the left hand side, there is Greek-Orthodox Church the Holy Trinity (5), formerly the Basilians. We reach the monastery courtyard through the beautiful rococo gate dating back to the XVIII century. The Greek-Orthodox Church, originally gothic, was rebuilt in the XVIII century in the rococo style. It was founded by hetman Ostrogski in 1514 in remembrance of the victory over the Moscow Army at Orsza.

The church is an example of the intermingling of east and west cultures – very clear influences of Ruthenian-Bizantine architecture are present in the tri-apsis closure of the presbytery. In 1823, the Filarites, including Mickiewicz, were imprisoned on the first floor of the monastery.

The Ostrabramska Street leads us to the irregularly shaped Town Hall Square, formerly the market place. To the right we have the church of St. Kazimierz (6) dating back to the beginning of the XVII century and the first baroque church in Vilnius (the façade was disfigured in the XIX century when being transformed into a Greek-Orthodox church). It has a wonderful cupola seen from the courtyard to the left of the church, a rococo interior and a bower dating back to the mid XVIII century. The Town Hall (7) on the Square was rebuilt in the classicistic style by Gucewicz at the end of the XVIII century. To the left of the Town Hall Square, there is the ghetto (entrance from Szklanna Street). The best view of the picturesque ghetto streets, spanned by arcades, can be obtained from the intersection of the Szklanna, Klaczka, Zydowska and Gaon streets. The main synagogue (first half of the XVII century, baroque) is located on Zydowska Street.

From the Town Hall Square we turn right onto Sawicz Street to find the post-Augustine (8) rococo church from the mid XVIII century. Another right turn takes us into the pretty Bakszta Street and if we continue uphill on this street and turn left we will find ourselves on Sabocz Street where the rococo Church of the Missionaries (9) stands. It was completed in 1757 and is a typical example of the Vilnius rococo architecture with its slender towers and decorative façade. From here we turn right into Ross Street to find the late-baroque church of the Visitants (10) dating back to the mid XVIII century. The rococo altars inside are adorned with paintings by Czechowicz. Ross Street crosses the railway line and leads to a wonderfully situated cemetery. And it is here that Pilsudski’s heart will finally be laid to rest next to his mother’s grave.

We reach Wielka Street, which turns into Zamkowa Street, from the Town Hall Square. To the left, we have the monumental gothic church of St. Jan (11) dating back to the beginning of the XV century. It was rebuilt in the rococo style in the mid XVIII century. Inside we find a huge, most beautiful altar made of white and coloured stucco. On leaving the church, we cross the small courtyard with a baroque bell tower and enter the University’s main Skargai Courtyard (12). It is enclosed on three sides by baroque-styled Arcadian wings, going back to the first half of the XVII century, and on the fourth by the rococo façade of the church of St. Jan. We reach the first floor of the Pillar Auditorium (classicistic – beginning of the XIX century, architect Podczaszynski) by way of a regular incline (XVII century). We cross the Skargi Courtyard, pass through a gate and so reach the second baroque-styled Arcadian courtyard (XVII century) named Poczobut. The classicistic façade of the former observatory dates back to second half of the XVIII century. (architect Knackfuss).

We return to Zamek Street. At nr. 11, on the first floor, we find the University Museum of Archeology and Ethnography, at nr. 6 - a XVII century baroque garret and at nr. 4 – a tall renaissance garret dating back to the end of the XVI century. We turn right into Bernardine Lane spanned by arcades. The charming, narrow and winding lanes are typical of the old part of Vilnius. Bernardine Lane leads us to a cluster of old churches. St. Michael’s (13) shows the changeover from gothic to baroque architecture (beginning of the XVII century). The interior is renaissance, the Sapieha Family marble tombstones are early-baroque (first half of the XVII century). Nearby, there are two late-gothic brick-built churches: the huge post-Bernardine’s (14) (XVI century) and small St. Anne’s (15) (mid XVI century). The latter has an unusually decorative façade, a style which has its origins in the gothic architecture of the Netherlands. A slender gothic tower adorns the presbytery of the former. The interior boasts baroque-style marble and rococo-style wooden altars. The sacristy has a crystal dome and gothic doors.

Anne Street takes us to the post-Bernardine gardens. From the gardens, there is a breathtaking view of the hills known as Altarja on the Wilejka river. The crosses on Three Cross Hill commemorate the Franciscans who, according to legend, were martyred in Vilnius in the XIV century before the unification of Poland and Lithuania and before Christianisation. The Bernardine garden adjoins the Zamek garden. There is a magnificent view of the city and surrounds from the Zamek Hill (16) where the remains of a gothic castle still stand. It was built in the middle of the XV century by the Great Duke Witold and destroyed during the Moscow onslaught in the middle of the XVII century. Zamek Dolny, the actual royal residence, stood at the bottom of the hill but was totally destroyed, around 1800, by the invaders.

The castle’s church was the cathedral (17) founded by King Wladyslaw Jagiello, in 1387. It was rebuilt in the renaissance style in the middle of the XVI century under the direction of B. Zenobi and G. Cini and once again in the classicistic style, according to the plans of architect Gucewicz, towards the end of the XVIII century. Inside we find renaissance and baroque tombstones of marble and paintings by Czechowicz, Smuglewicz and others. The early-baroque chapel of St. Kazimierz (completed in 1636) has marble-clad walls, stucco carvings and murals by the Italian painter Delbeni dating back to the late XVII century. The silver coffin containing the relics of St. Kazimierz, the patron saint of Lithuania, is to be found in the altar. The remains of King Aleksander Jagiellonczyk (died 1506), Queen Elzbieta (died 1545), Queen Barbara Radziwillow (died 1551) and the heart of King Wladyslaw IV (died 1648) are in the royal mausoleum. The royal regalia and other jewels are held in the treasury. The belfry, which stands alone, was built on the walls of the former tower, a part of the fortification surrounding the Zamek Dolny (XIV century, peak of the belfry is classicistic and dates back to the late XVIII century).

If you leave Cathedral Square behind and cross Bishop Bandurski Street you will reach Napoleon Square. Two sides are lined by classicistic houses and palaces dating back to the early XIX century and the XVII century baroque church of the Bonifrates (18). On the third side there is the early XIX century pseudo classical Representation Palace (19) (the President of the Republic of Poland has his rooms on the first floor) The university library ( 350.000 books) is located to the left, on a small square adjacent to the palace. Smuglewicz’s polychrome adorns a room bearing his name and the Lelewela Room is done in baroque polychrome. On the third floor of the university building we find the classicistic “White Room” (architect Knackfuss) dating back to the end of the XVIII century. On the ground floor of University Street 3 we will find the gothic room dating back to the XVI century and presently housing the faculty of Fine Arts. (collection of works of art). University Street 4 has an early-baroque style arcadian courtyard dating back to the first half of the XVII century and formerly the papal seminary (20).

We leave University Street and turn right into Dominican Street. To the right we have the church of the Holy Ghost (21) (post-Dominican) founded in the XV century. It was rebuilt in brick and baroque-style, during the second half of the XVII century and once more in the rococo-style in the middle of the XVIII century. Inside it has rococo-style stucco altars dating back to the middle of the XVIII century. We enter Wilenska Street by turning right, from Dominican Street. To the right, we have church of St. Katarzyna (22) begun in the baroque style in the second half of the XVII century. The façade, steeples, chapel and pinnacle above the presbytery were built according to the plans of the Vilnius architect, Glaubicz (completed in 1743) and show the transition from baroque to rococo. The splendid rococo altars, dating back to 1753, are of coloured stucco and inset with paintings by Czechow.

We cross from Zeligowska Street into Zawalna Street and turn left. At Zawalna Street 20 we have the Reformed Evangelical Church (23) (pseudo classical built around 1830-35, plans by the architect Podczaszynski). We leave Zawalna Street and turn left into Trotsky Street. To the right, by a large square, there is the church and monastery of the Franciscans (24) founded in the XIV century. At the beginning of the XV century, the brick buildings were gothic-styled and rebuilt in the same style in the XVI century. Then, during the second half of the XVIII century, the style used was the transitional one, from rococo to classicism. The gothic portal, round annexe housing the staircase, crystal gothic vaulting, paintings and stucco belong to the XVIII century. The small baroque chapel “Suzinowska”, which stands by the roadside, was erected in 1708.

We leave Trotsky Street by turning right into German Street, which is made up of mainly, old misshapen buildings. At nr. 9 and slightly set back, there is the Augsburg Evangelical Church founded in the middle of the XVI century. A number of small streets run off to the left from German Street and lead into the ghetto. To the right we have St. Nicholas Lane, home to the oldest gothic church in Vilnius, St. Nicholas, founded in the XIV century. The next street to the right from German Street is Rudnicka Street, which leads up to the baroque church All Saints dating back to the first half of the XVII century. (altars from the middle of XVIII century).

We take Arsenal Street from Cathedral Square and end up at the Antokol. The Wroblewski Library containing 80.000 books, museum collections – Vilniana (Masonic antiques) and the East European Institute of Learning and Research are located on the corner of Arsenal and Zygmunt Street. The baroque Sluszkow Palace (XVII century) is situated on Antokol Street by the river Wilja and was turned into a military prison. The street is closed in by the baroque church St. Peter and Paul. It was built and embellished between 1668 and 1684 according to the plans of the Krakau architect, Zaora. The interior is beautifully decorated with stucco sculptures and ornamentation, the work of Italian stucco artists, who worked under the direction of Peretti and Galli. The murals are the work of the Italian painter M.A. Palloni.

Beyond the churches, Sapiezynska Street leads off from Antokol Street heading towards a number of baroque buildings erected by the Sapieha family, towards the end of the XVII and beginning of the XVIII century. (palace, park, park gates, the post-Trinitarian church, the interior of which is adorned with stucco sculptures. On leaving Cathedral Square and taking Mickiewicz Street (the main thoroughfare today) we head for Orzeszkowa Square. To the right, we have the rococo church of St. Jerzy (27), which dates back to the mid XVIII century. We follow Wilenska Street to the right and then the first street to the left is Lelewela Street and at number 8 we find the Society of Friends of Learning Museum. It is the central museum of Arts in north-east Poland.

Wilenska Street takes us to the Green Bridge (28) over the river Wilja. Before reaching it but across the river there is the baroque church, St. Rafael, which was built during the first half of the XVIII century. To the left and slightly set back on Lukiski Square, there is the baroque church of St. Filip and Jakub dating back to the first half of the XVIII century. Nearby on Meczet Street, there is an XVIII century, humble, wooden mosque. Behind Lukiski Square we have Mickiewicz Street, which leads us to the Zwierzyniec outskirts. The new Karaite place of worship is on Zana Street.

The most beautiful trips around Vilnius: to Troki (28km. by bus or car), the ruins of XV century gothic castles picturesquely set amid lakes. A baroque parish church dating back to the beginning of the XVII century containing the miraculous painting of Our Lady. Troki is also the home to the highest Karaite spiritual authority; to Werek (8km by boat up the river Wilja). Picturesque embankments, rococo churches, built by Gucewicz, in Trynopol and Calvary, classicistic palaces in the hills in Werek.